I was also impressed with HP’s customer service. When my printer needed new print heads less than a week out of the box, HP overnighted me a new printer, requesting I send the old one back in the arriving box. They also offered 1 year product replacement insurance.

So, why would I get rid of such a great machine?

1. The ink has a shelf-life. No kidding. Like milk, hp vivera inks have an expiration date. If you try to use these inks past that specified date, you will get an ugly message that says that continuing to use said inks will void your warranty. I happened to buy inks last fall to have on hand, not realizing that they expired in January 2010. Until I installed them. Oh yeah, and by the way, the only way to know when the expiration date is? You have to open the sealed packaging. At least milk prints the date on the outside of the packaging.

2. Did I mention the ink is really expensive?

3. The Vivera inks are water and scratch resistant, fade resistant to over 100 years. The catch? Only when printed on HP products.

The Ultrachrome K3 Ink for my Epson 2400 also claims the same caveats- color permanence and stability on premium Epson products. The big surprise is that Epson Ultrachrome K3 inks are stable, water resistant, and produce true colors on just about any good quality paper and canvas stock I have tested.

Which leads me to my final and most important reason:

4. The Elegance Velvet Fine Art Paper and Lyve Canvas from BreathingColor.com. Order a trial quatity of any of their products and they will include a sample of their papers and canvas. The richness and depth of the colors are breathtaking.

So, I bid my HP 9180 a civil adieu. I can’t say I will miss it much because I haven’t used it much after having thrown out over $200 worth of inks in January  of this year.

That is, until this last weekend when my MacBook Pro's battery decided to act up.

 

Since I have a very powerful Mac Pro humming away under my desk I don't use my MacBook Pro too often. I'll take it when I travel but don't use it on battery power too often. Since I bought the machine about 18 months ago I've only cycled the battery 47 times according to System Profiler.

 

While traveling over Thanksgiving I pulled the MBP from my bag, powered it up and started happily working away. Oddly the battery indicator—which should show a full charge—rapidly dropped to 92%. Within about 15 minutes my battery power was already dropping below 70%.

 

I kept working away, popping open some web sites and updating a spreadsheet with some of the data I was looking up. I glanced up at the battery gauge and saw that it was already down in the 40% range after only about 20 minutes of use when suddenly my MBP shut down.

 

This wasn't a graceful "I'm going to sleep now" shut down. There were no warnings, no kernel panics and no obvious signs of distress from my Mac. The screen just went black. I had about 3 seconds of noise from the fans and hard drive spinning down while I contemplated what had just happened. Did I save what I was working on? Did I really only get 20 minutes of use out of my battery?

 

I closed the MBP and flipped it over, pushed the little battery indicator button and two little green lights winked back at me. Odd. I pressed the power button and the MBP started to boot up. It was nearly through the boot process when it decided to give up and shut down again.

 

I grabbed my power cord, plugged the machine in and booted it up. It came up fine, no issues and dutifully reported that it was charging the battery. I remembered that I had recently seen an article on calibrating the battery from Apple. The process was simple:

Get the machine fully recharged then let it rest in that state for at least 2 hours. Once charged, unplug the power and run it down until the machine goes into a sleep state. Let it stay in sleep mode for at least 5 hours to fully exhaust the battery. Recharge from there and you are ready to go.

The problem was, the machine would shut off well before I got down too low on the battery. I decided to get it as close to the "shut down zone" as I could (about 40%), then put the machine to sleep. The graceful pulsating light told me it was happily slumbering away. I left it like that to see how long the battery would last while preserving the memory in sleep mode.

 

Three days later I lost patience and tried to wake it from sleep mode while still disconnected from power. Though the light was still pulsing I couldn't wake the machine. Not completely dead, it appeared to be in a coma. I reconnected power, turned on the machine and it quickly restored itself. The battery gauge was registering numbers all over the map and after it charged fully it indicated that I needed to "Service Battery":

 

 

At this point I'll try taking it into to my local Apple store and see how they deal with it. I have an Apple Care extended warranty though I'm not sure if they will cover the battery with that. Stay tuned and I'll post an update once I learn the outcome. I posted a note about this on Twitter and got lots of responses telling me that Apple quickly replaced their batteries for them. Then again, I also got a link to this page about Apple's battery policy.

 

Had a battery issue with a MacBook Pro? Did you get a resolution that worked for you? Drop a note in the comments and let me know!

Visit DavidAlison.com

In case you don't feel like downloading the guide, topical excerpts are available on their website:

Read Tech Buyer's Guide For Netbooks
The PopSci Top Pick?  HP Mini 311-1000NR 11.6-Inch Black Netbook

Read Tech Buyer's Guide For Point-n-Shoot Cameras
The PopSci Top Pick?  Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS3 10.1 MP Digital Camera with 12x Wide Angle MEGA Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 3 inch LCD

Read Tech Buyer's Guide For Pocket Camcorders
The PopSci Top Pick? Kodak Zi8 HD Pocket Video Camera

Read Tech Buyer's Guide For Entry-Level TVs
The PopSci Pick? LG 47LH50 47-Inch 1080p 120Hz Broadband LCD HDTV

Mustek Scan Express A3 1200 Pro USB Large Format Scanner is the most reasonably priced tabloid-size (11.7 x 16.5) scanner on that market at this time. It definitely outperforms expectations, especially at this pricepoint (i paid $167 at Amazon) though it should not be confused with the less-for-more Mustek ScanExpress A3 USB Flatbed Scanner

The first scanner I ever bought way back in 1998 was also a tabloid sized scsi scanner by Epson for which I paid around $500- a hefty chunk of that semester’s student loan but my rationale was that I draw big.  My drawing pad of choice was (and still is) the strathmore 18×24 50lb and it was much easier to digitize in two passes on a tabloid-size scanner.

Many years, and many scanners, later I bought this Mustek scanner to expedite truly tedious work, scanning evidentiary timelines, for my bread-and-butter client, an Intellectual Property Rights Attorney. These timelines can end up being 13 inches by 142 inches spanning 20 years or more.

Even though I purchased this scanner for purely commercial purposes, I can see the advantage for artists working in 11 x 17 (or slightly larger) media- watercolor or comic book art boards. For less than $200, it can output full color 1200 dpi images, connect to any mac or pc via USB 2.0 and its removable cover makes scanning thick books easy.

Installation from a the included CD, while a little archaic, is easy enough. I couldn’t figure where to launch the scanner from so I called Tech Support. They were friendly and helpful and didn’t laugh out loud when we figured out that i installed the scanner while Photoshop was opened in the background. (and they answered the call quickly)

Do remember to re-launch Photoshop or you might find the scanner is not listed in the FILE>IMPORT> menu.

The Drawbacks-

• The scanner interface is tiny. Too small to get a good preview of teh iamge you are scanning.
• The scanner software is slow to launch. Very slow. The lack of multi-scan option means relaunching the software a lot.
• Lack of image correction: Because it is fully compliant with TWAIN api. is managed thru Photoshop or any other image editing software that supports scanner interface software known as “Technology Without An Interesting Name”. This is convenient.  but I do miss the image retouching capabilities of my previous scanner and corresponding software. The Canoscan 4400f software had a multi-scanning option- I should have to relaunch the scanner window for every scan. The Canon software also provides image correction – moray/print pattern correction and the color adjustment for fold shadows are 2 other options all scanner software should provide.
  In sharp contrast, the only automatic color correction Mustek provide is a radio button called “color match”. The difference is immediately visible when color match is checked. Flip thru the slideshow to see the difference.
• No film scanner attachment.
  

The scanner itself is very good. The interface is definitely lacking. And still, I recommend this to anyone in need of an over-sized scanner. Perfect for scrapbooking as well.

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Without taking time in this article to give you a background in additive color(projective color—ie: your monitor—color built with Red, Green, and Blue) and subtractive color(printed color—ie: your printer—color built with Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and black) suffice to say that because they come from different color spaces and one is made with light and the other with pigment that they will never exactly match, but they can come close. That's where color calibration of your monitor comes in because we can adjust our monitor's color with only minimal difficulty where adjusting the printing ink color is a major undertaking.

Making adjustments for the type of paper we are printing on is another adjustment we'll save for later. Right now we are trying to get what you see on the monitor to match a known standard so that we can make adjustments from a standard. The problem is that with a multitude of different manufacturers of monitors, the color that you see on those monitors matches whatever the manufacturer decides for the default. They may be adjusted to a standard of that manufactuer or may be allowed to simply occur—that is, they come off the production line without adjustment.

So, the first thing you need to do is get your monitor to match some standard that is acceptable to the paper and ink manufactuers for comparison in making decisions. To do that we need two things: (1) a sensor that can be placed on the screen of the monitor to read specific colors as they are generated by (2) the software provided by the manufacturer of the device. Once the system has been run, the colors on the monitor are as close to a standard as that particular monitor can be adjusted. Laptop monitors do not have as much potential adjustment as does a stand-alone monitor. Some photographers will tell you that they can get very close as they produce a profile for their laptops, but a separate monitor should produce even better results.

I use equipment and software from XRite with the specific device being called Eye1Display2. Why am I really doing this and why an Eye1Display2?

WHAT I WANT TO HAPPEN

My studio has four MacBook Pro laptops and one MacPro. I want them to match as closely as possible so that an image seen on one machine looks the same there as on any other machine in the studio. When my wife prepares her art for printing on our older Epson wide format 7600 printer I want the images on my 30" Apple monitor to match what she was working on when she designed them. Done that way it keeps a lot of piece in the family and saves a lot of ink, paper, and time. What I print will be what she wants. The only additional change I will have to make will be that which occurs when I soft proof an image.

I want before and after results in order to see what the profile adjustments do to an image. I want as nearly as possible neutral grays when I print black and white prints. I want it to be consistent, relatively quick, and easy. All of those goals are satisfied for me with the Eye1Display2.

WHAT IS GOING TO HAPPEN

When the software for a particular color calibrating system is activated, it will ask that you place the color sensor (sometimes called the "puck") on the center of your monitor screen. A cord connects the sensor to a USB port on the computer, and a small counterweight is attached somewhere on the cord in order to offset the weight of the puck and to keep it hanging and resting on the computer screen without accidentally or easily moving.

First, the software will ask you what kind of device you want to calibrate. In this case you will select MONITOR.

The software will ask you what kind of monitor you are working with, that is whether it is a laptop screen or a LCD or CRT screen.

As you can see above we are choosing LAPTOP from the choices of monitor type.

Then the software will ask you to make decisions about the WHITE POINT, GAMMA, and LUMINANCE you want in your screen profile.

Once you have made those decisions the software will ask you to position the puck on the display of your monitor.

Once the procedure has begun, a series of white rectangles will appear on an otherwise black screen. These rectangles will appear at what appear to be randon positons until they have pinpointed the exact location of the puck—the sensor. In this illustration the gray is really black; it is lightened here so that the puck does not disappear against the black screen.

Once the puck location has been determined a series of color and value rectangles will appear and the sensor will read the colors to determine what is seen vs. what is intended to be seen. The colors will appear to repeat themselves as the sensor narrows down the differences and adjusts the monitor to match the standard.

The progress of the procedure is visible in the progress bar visible on the top right of the monitor.

Once the procedure is finished you should notice a difference in the screen colors from what you had when you began the program. The software will save the profile that it has developed for your screen and will use it as a basis to show all your art or photographs from now on.

However, and there's always a "however", computer monitors age and change color almost on a day to day basis. Therefore, the software asks you to set up reminders on when to run the profile again whether it is daily, weekly, or monthly. This is not something that is done once and then forgotten. What has happened up to this point is that the monitor and the printer standard have established rules by which they can talk to one another. What should have happened at this point is that what you see on the computer monitor and what you get as a print should be closer together though they may not be perfect—the effects of specific papers are not yet in the equation.

Why is it not perfect? Because each manufacturer's paper by the nature of its production has the potential for a color bias in it. The paper itself may have a blue, cyan or other cast to it that cannot be seen by the naked eye but will be visible when it reacts with ink. That bias is also called a profile—though in this case it is a paper profile and not a monitor profile. The paper profile is taken into account when "soft proofing" from inside of Photoshop or whatever printing software you are using.

But our concern at this point is producing the monitor profile that is our beginning point. That's the XRite i1Display2. It's available from XRite for $259.00 and from a number of color service providers and retail stores for a slightly discounted price. I estimate I paid for it in ink and paper I saved in the first show I prepared for. It has made waiting on a final print a lot less breath holding. After applying the soft proof, now what I print is what I have on the monitor screen.

This is where it got really boring. It just worked. I hooked up the firewire 800 cable, rebooted the old Mac Pro to firewire by holding the “T” button, and selected the items I wanted to transfer from a short list. I clicked OK, and wandered off. It sat there and chugged along, transferring everything I had selected down to my browser and network settings. It took about two hours, but that is a huge time saving over installing and setting up a new machine. Normally I would expect to spend two days!

Next, I opened my CS4 upgrade and installed it… it just worked, too. After this install, I dragged the CS3 stuff to the trash to free up that disk space.

I guess, really when you get down to it, that boring can be good. I have a few applications that need updates. I updated to 10.6.1 OS X, and then grabbed the Snow Leopard HP printer drivers… my first print job, a 20-page brochure from InDesign CS4 opened from a CS3 document, printed flawlessly. Next I updated my Epson drivers from the Epson support website for my R2400. The page says in red letters “This file contains everything you need to use your Epson Stylus Photo R2400 with your Macintosh.” Perfect.

So here I sit, less than four hours from putting it together out of the boxes, working on a brand new system with everything from my old system. Now the old system can be re-configured to be a capture station for new images, and hopefully run my now discontinued Epson 4870 scanner. So far, that doesn’t want to work, but that is on the old system. Bottom line? Migration assistant rocks!

We’re going to call this fixture a SPIDER, you’ll see why in just a moment.

Here is my original collection of parts.

A 3” clean-out plug serves as a hub for the sockets.  My original idea was to attach the clean out plug to a 3” bushing that would be attached to the front of the 2” tee fitting.  The power cord would run out the back of the tee and the light stand would attach to the base of the tee.

I measured and marked the clean-out plug and drilled it with a 5/16” bit.  I made a simple jig from scrap wood to hold the fitting in place.

Using a 2” lamp nipple and a pair of channel locks, I carefully cut the threads for the shorter nipples.  This is where the working characteristics of PVC came into play.  You can cut threads into PVC with a bolt and a little patience, instead of using a tap and die.  I chased the threads all the way through the side of the fitting.

Here is the clean-out plug with all of the lamp nipples fitted.  I chose a clean-out plug as opposed to a regular cap so that I could access the wires more easily.

Each socket was wired and the wires passed through the hole of the mounting bracket.  The design of the bracket and the lamp nipples allowed me to keep all of the wires hidden.

Above is the front of the SPIDER WITH the wiring in place.

Above is the back of the SPIDER with the wiring in place. The sockets were wired in pairs, then the pairs were wired together.  I used wire connectors instead of soldering so that a socket could easily be replaced if it failed.

LOOK; it works! 

At this point I realized that my original design was way too front-heavy.  I needed to move the center of gravity farther back.  So, I’m off to Home Depot yet again.

I found a 3”-3”-2” tee fitting that solved my problem of balance nicely.  I added a 3” to 2” reducer to the back of the tee fitting and a 2” to1.25” threaded reducer to that.  A 4” circle of plywood and a 1.25” male fitting is attached to the reducer and this holds the speedring to my Paul C Buff OCTOBOX™ firmly in place.  A 2” to .75” threaded reducer is mounted at the bottom of the tee for the light stand fitting.

Here’s the light inside the OCTOBOX™.  It throws a very even lighting pattern, even without the diffusion panel.  It’s well balanced and easy to handle in the studio.  I’m working on an improved version for my still photography.  Stay tuned…

Kirk Draut
Director of Design
Aarthun Performance Group, Ltd.
281.580.5705

Let’s get started:

16" mixing bowl

6 light sockets

2 ½" PVC tees

1 ½" PVC threaded tee

1 ½" PVC cross

5 ½" PVC 90-degree corners

½" PVC pipe

The total cost for materials was less than $35. CFL bulbs were another $18.

The PVC is assembled as shown. Short pieces of PVC pipe are used to join the fittings. The threads on the PVC match the threads on the light fixtures. The wires for the fixtures will run through the PVC.

The PVC assembly is test-fitted on the back of the bowl before any cuts are made.

The bowl is primed and marked for cutting. 

My trusty Dremel™ tool made short work of the bowl. I used a 1/4" drill bit to create pilot holes, then opened up the holes with the Dremel™.

Each light fixture is threaded through the hole in the reflector, into the PVC assembly. The fixtures have a lock washer at the base that allows them to be tightened in place.

The wires from the fixtures pass through the angled pipe. My original plan was to run all of them into the central tee fitting, but the pipe was too small. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the backs of the tee and cross fittings and ran them out the back of the assembly.

I used twist-on connectors to join the wires to a computer power cord that I had in my big Pile-o-Cables. Zip ties are used to secure the power cord and keep the wires from being pulled apart.

Each fixture gets a 23-watt CFL bulb. This gives me the equivalent of 600 watts of incandescent lighting for a quarter of the power and a lot less heat. I can also vary the color temperature by changing out bulbs. The light attaches to my light stand with a piece of SCH 80 pipe fitted with a thumbscrew. 

Stay tuned for part 2 when the CFL light gets a big brother…

In the last couple of years, I have cooled to Apple’s hip reputation for quality and innovation. My Intel iMac’s motherboard needed replacement just 13 months after I bought it. Since I forgot to renew my Applecare, the cost of replacing the motherboard was $900. Nine hundred dollars is a very hard bill to swallow when the problem was nothing more than a bad ethernet port.

A quick search on the web opened up a world of people complaining of defective this or that and, while I applaud Apple’s innovative designs, I have become increasingly concerned with Apple’s reliance on Chinese manufacturers for their products. At the risk of being called a jingoist, the last year in the news proves that quality control is not China’s strong suit.

Despite the recession, the time was quickly coming when I would have to upgrade but I hadn’t really considered what I was going to upgrade to. I just didn’t want to think about it. And I didn’t. This mac monster was a very generous gift / investment from a long-time mentor and collaborator.

I have fallen in love with Apple all over again. And its all because of this most beautiful thing I have ever seen.

Quick like a bunny.

Fast? Oh is it fast. The once maddeningly-sluggish Firefox launch sequence now occurs in an instant. Photoshop loads so fast it makes me warm in places I don’t care to elucidate.

Bright Young Thing

I keep the lights off in my office, not for any other reason than I like my monitors very bright and my Imac just wasn’t bright enough with the lights on.  The 24-in LED Cinema Display is so crisp, so bright, i have had to dim the monitor a bit, and still, the colors are rich and the blacks deep and velvety.

Migration Assistant

My last computer purchase was a white Intel iMac but I don’t really remember the migration of my computer files to the new mac. I remember being afraid and putting off the migration for months because I knew it would interrupt my workflow. Always a bad thing.

I do remember that, when I finally upgraded from my eMac to my Intel iMac, I had to painstakingly  swap folders in the library so I could preserve my email archive. My desktop- which would frighten the most compulsive data spelunker- was difficult to recreate. If there was an easier way, I was not aware of it. My blood pressure rose, my workflow shriek to a stop.

After the first  Mac Pro tower’s startup sound, I was completely prepared for another messy move. I actually made the first transfer and was dumbfounded at thought that I would have to merge some folders and replace others. I was actually cursing Apple for my own stupidity.

Then I had a "Duh!" moment.

I used Migration Assistant to do the data transfer. When it was done, I gave the new User Account admin privileges. Then I logged out and logged back into the new admin account. At this time, you can either delete the old admin account or you can make the newly migrated  admin account the automatic login. (Some uber apple geeks suggest keeping a spare admin account for future troubleshooting.)

This method won’t work if you have been working on one admin account and import your old set-up into a new admin. I still don’t know of an easy way to merge two admin accounts and I am not sure how what i would have done if I had waited a week or more to migrate.

The Sleek and Pretty Keyboard.

The keyboard’s low, flat profile is a comfortable size and the angle of rise is just perfect to encourage a more ergonomic wrist bend. The con? It is one of the loudest keyboards I have had in the last few years. Oh Gawd, please help me adapt to the metallic clacking of the space bar.

What’s not to love?

A cynic by nature, I am looking for something to dislike about this machine. I haven’t found it yet. I have had some frustrating moments while setting up the mac pro tower. I can however, trace all these frustrations directly to Adobe. I am still pissed at Adobe for coercing an upgrade to CS3 when I bought my Intel Mac. At the time, I didn’t need the added expense or interruption in my workflow.

That frustration was revisited when I was now faced with the re-activate thing for my CS3 products. Add the now famous licensing error For CS4 products … ooof.

Even so, this machine, this magnificent machine is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. Even more so ’cause its mine.

This past weekend my air conditioning AND my dvd player died. Within the span of 4 hours.

Possible reasons:

1. Power Surge. Maybe. Things haven’t been quite right since Hurricane Ike dropped by for a visit last September (2008).  The phone line for my dsl needed replacement.

However, the surge suppresor built into our electric box remains intact (the light would have turned red if something had happened electrically).

2. Retrograde Pluto transiting my 2nd House (Values & Possessions: The second house and its occupants tell us about the material circumstances, the acquisitive urge and how we deal with possessions and material means.)

The disappointment was crushing-  we were looking at being hot and unconfortable AND we would be unable to watch the DVDs received in the mail: Ricky Gervais: Out Of England and OSS 117: Le Caire Nid d’Espions .

I survived the boredom of Hurricane Ike watching bootleg dvds of The Middleman. I had no intention of allowing some wicked cosmic interference thwart my plans on this particular weekend. Unlike Ike, this time we had power. We were able to plug in my 22 in Acer AL2216W (Max Resolution 1680 x 1050; Max Sync Rate (V x H) 76 Hz x 82 kHz; Image Aspect Ratio16:10) monitor to the laptop using a single link DVI to VGA adapter.  We then plugged JBL Duet speakers into the headphone plug on the laptop and we were good to go. We didn’t suffer too much.

I decided that I no longer want a dvd player. I don’t see the advantage at this time. This particular LG dvd player is less than 6 months old. It was purchased to replace the Coby dvd player we loved. We had found the unlock codes for that particular model Coby so we were region-free- able to watch movies unreleased in the USA. Roof damage caused by Ike claimed that lovely hard-working and VERY cheap dvd player as a casualty. We mourned.

For this LG to have died after less than 6 months leaves me speechless on the subject.

I am planning to use my laptop as my dvd player until I decide that some technological DVD advance makes it imperative that I purchase a new one. I just have to figure out which connection and adapter I need to make this happen.

First, I have to determine what connections are available to me and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each. This is a small overview of what connections are available to connect a Monitor or TV to a computer. Below each image is the Wikipedia link to information page to each.
 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HD15

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Component_video

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mini_dvi

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hdmi

There are more BUT these are the ones that are directly related to my variables. I did not include references to mini-HDMI.

My Apple PowerBook G4 1GHz Laptop (Part #: M9008LL/A) has an s-Video and DVI-I (integrated, digital & analog) dual link.

Our Norcent PT-4246HD 42" Plasma TV has the following specs:
Aspect Ratio: 16:9
Resolution: 1024×768
Formats: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i
Ports: 1 x RF Antenna-in
Ports: 1 x Composite Video In Rear
Ports: 1 x Composite Video In Side
Ports: 1 x Composite Audio/Video Out
Ports: 2 x
Ports: 1 x S-Video In Rear
Ports: 1 x S-Video In Side
Ports: 1 x HDMI-HDCP Digital A/V In
Ports: Audio In
Ports: 1 x 15-pin D-Sub (HD-15) VGA-in
Ports: 4 x Stereo Audio Line In
Ports: SPDIF Audio Out
Ports: RS-232
Ports: Headphone Jack

If I can avoid using sVideo  or componentVideo, I will. We spent  a couple of years watching  this plasma TV using these connections and didn’t notice the difference until we got the LG dvd player with an HDMI out. Then we realized what we had been missing.

I was also going to the HD15 VGA connection- while I already have everything I would need to make that happen, I wasn’t too impressed with the quality fo the video we were getting on the 22in monitor . I didn’t realize that there was also a s-Video connection on the back of the monitor and I wonder, even though sVideo is considered poor quality,  if I would have had better luck with that. My main concern is whether the laptop can push that much data… am i just being paranoid?

Today I plan to order a female HDMI to male Dual Link DVI adapter. I will update this post with a comparison sVideo v. HDMI.

Cables Unlimited ADP-3780 DVI-D Male to HDMI Female Adapter